Velour, Velvet & Velveteen 101

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How to Sew Velour, Velvet & Velveteen: A Beginner’s Guide

Velvet, velour, and velveteen are some of the most beautiful fabrics you can sew with—but they can also be a little intimidating if you haven't worked with them before.

Their soft, luxurious texture is exactly what makes them so special, but that texture also means they behave differently from many other fabrics.

If you've ever bought a beautiful piece of velvet or velour and then hesitated to cut into it because you were afraid of ruining it, you're not alone!

I've worked with velour on several projects, including a smoking jacket, and for this project I used a stretch velour to make a pair of pants. Along the way, I've learned a few things that make working with these fabrics much easier.

In this guide, I'll explain the basics of velvet, velour, and velveteen, how to identify the pile and nap, how to prepare and cut your fabric, which needles and pins to use, and some of the techniques I find helpful when sewing these fabrics.

Prefer to watch instead? I've also put together a Fabric 101 video where I demonstrate these techniques while making my velour pants. Click the video at the end of this post to watch on YouTube.

Velvet, Velour & Velveteen: What's the Difference?

Velvet, velour, and velveteen are all pile fabrics. That means they have raised fibers on the surface that create their characteristic soft, textured feel.

Although they can look similar, they aren't exactly the same.

Velvet

Velvet is known for its dense, luxurious pile and rich appearance. It's commonly used for formalwear, eveningwear, costumes, upholstery, and other projects where you want a more elegant look.

Velour

Velour has a soft, plush surface and is often made with stretch, although not all velour is stretchy. It's commonly used for loungewear, dancewear, comfortable garments, and other casual projects.

Velveteen

Velveteen is typically a woven fabric, often made from cotton, with a shorter pile than velvet. It has a somewhat different appearance and feel and can behave more like a traditional woven fabric.

Keep in mind that these are general characteristics. Fabric construction and fiber content can vary, so always check the information for your specific fabric.

What Is Pile?

If you're new to sewing with velvet, velour, or velveteen, "pile" is one of the first terms you'll want to understand.

Pile refers to the raised fibers on the surface of a fabric.

The pile is what gives these fabrics their soft texture and characteristic appearance.

The height and density of the pile can vary. Generally, velvet has a denser, more luxurious pile, while velour tends to have a softer pile and velveteen typically has a shorter pile.

The pile is also responsible for an important characteristic you'll need to consider when sewing:

Nap.

What Is Nap?

The nap is the direction in which the pile lies.

Run your hand over a piece of velvet or velour and you'll notice that it feels smooth in one direction and rougher when you run your hand against the pile.

You'll also be able to see a difference in the fabric's appearance. Depending on the direction of the pile and how the light hits it, the fabric can appear lighter, darker, or have a different sheen.

This is extremely important when you're cutting your pattern.

All of your pattern pieces should follow the same nap direction.

You don't want one piece cut with the nap running down toward the hem and another piece cut with the nap running upward. Even though you're using the same fabric, the pieces can appear to be different colors.

Cutting With Nap

ALL PATTERN PIECES → SAME NAP DIRECTION

Before buying your fabric:

1. Check the pattern's fabric requirements.

2. Look at the recommended pattern layout.

3. Determine whether the pattern pieces can all be placed in the same direction.

4. Purchase additional fabric if necessary.

Some commercial patterns show pattern pieces going in different directions to conserve fabric. That may work for fabrics without a directional nap, but with velvet, velour, and other napped fabrics, you'll generally want to keep the nap consistent.

Always check your pattern before purchasing your fabric. You may need more yardage than the pattern envelope originally recommends.

Before You Wash Your Fabric, Check the Care Instructions

If you're used to pre-washing your fabric before starting a sewing project, don't automatically assume that every velvet, velour, or velveteen can be treated the same way.

The appropriate care method depends on the specific fabric, its fiber content, and how it was manufactured.

Some fabrics may be machine washable, while others may require hand washing, dry cleaning, or another specific method.

Before you:

• Pre-wash

• Dry

• Steam

• Iron

• Or otherwise treat your fabric

Check the manufacturer's care instructions first.

If you're unsure how your fabric will react, test your planned method on a scrap before treating the entire piece.

Choosing the Right Sewing Needle

The type of needle you use should depend on whether you're working with a stretch or woven fabric.

For Stretch Velour or Stretch Pile Fabrics

Consider:

Ballpoint needle
or
Stretch needle

These needles are designed for knit/stretch fabrics and can help prevent skipped stitches and damage to the fabric.

For Woven Velvet or Velveteen

Consider:

Universal needle
or
Microtex needle

The best choice can vary depending on the specific fabric, so it's always a good idea to test your needle on a scrap before starting your project.

Needle Cheat Sheet

Fabric Construction	Needle to Consider
Stretch velour	Ballpoint or Stretch
Stretch velvet	Ballpoint or Stretch
Woven velvet	Universal or Microtex
Woven velveteen	Universal or Microtex

Always test your needle and stitch settings on a scrap of your actual fabric.

Pins, Clips & Pattern Weights

You have several options for holding pile fabrics in place while cutting and sewing.

You can use:

• Ballpoint pins

• Fine or silk pins

• Sewing clips

• Pattern weights

However, pile fabrics can be sensitive to pressure.

Clips and pattern weights can leave dents or marks in the pile, depending on the fabric.

Ashley's Tip

I prefer pins when working with pile fabrics.

I find that pins give me the control I need without putting prolonged pressure on the surface of the fabric.

If you're unsure how your particular fabric will react, test your preferred method on a scrap first.

 Use a Walking Foot

A walking foot can be especially helpful when sewing fabrics that tend to shift.

A walking foot helps feed the layers of fabric through the machine more evenly, which can be useful when working with:

• Stretch fabrics

• Slippery fabrics

• Pile fabrics

• Multiple layers

Use Tissue Paper to Help Prevent Shifting

This is one of my favorite tricks when working with small pieces of velour and other fabrics that tend to shift.

I actually save tissue paper from packages and gifts and keep it in my sewing room. Instead of throwing it away, I can reuse it for sewing projects.

Place a piece of tissue paper between the fabric layers before sewing. The tissue helps stabilize the layers and can make it easier to keep them aligned as they pass through the machine.

This technique is especially useful for:

• Cuffs

• Collars

• Pocket flaps

• Small layered pieces

• Other areas where precise alignment matters

I don't typically use tissue paper on large garment pieces. Most of the time, you won't find tissue paper large enough to cover an entire garment piece, and small amounts of shifting are much less noticeable over a large area.

For smaller pieces where you need the layers to stay precisely aligned, though, it can be incredibly helpful.

Ashley's Tip

Save your tissue paper!

Those sheets of tissue paper from gifts and packages can have a second life in your sewing room.

How to Cut Velour & Velvet

Once you've checked the fabric care instructions, determined the nap direction, and figured out your pattern layout, you're ready to cut.

1. Cut one layer at a time

Pile fabrics can shift, so I prefer to cut one layer at a time whenever possible.

Yes, it takes a little longer—but I find that it gives me much more control and helps me achieve more accurate pieces.

2. Keep the nap going in the same direction

Double-check your pattern pieces before you start cutting.

3. Cut from the wrong side

I personally prefer cutting these fabrics from the wrong side.

The wrong side is smooth, which makes it easier for me to handle the fabric and see my markings.

4. Handle the fabric gently

Try not to unnecessarily stretch, pull, or distort the fabric while you're cutting.

Ashley's Tip

Cut one layer at a time and take your time.

With a fabric like velour, I'd rather spend a few extra minutes cutting accurately than rush through it and have to figure out how to fix a poorly cut piece later.

Before You Start Sewing

Before sewing your actual garment, test your setup on a scrap of the same fabric.

Test:

• Needle

• Thread

• Stitch

• Tension

• Presser foot

This is especially important with velvet and velour because different fabrics can behave very differently.

A needle and stitch combination that works beautifully on one fabric may not work as well on another.

Test first.

It only takes a few minutes and can save you from discovering a problem halfway through your garment.

Sewing Velour & Velvet

When you start sewing, one of the biggest things to watch for is stretching or distorting the fabric.

Let the machine feed the fabric rather than pulling it through.

If you're working with stretch velour, be especially careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew unless the technique specifically requires it.

A walking foot can help feed the layers more evenly, and tissue paper can help stabilize smaller pieces.

Take your time and pay attention to how your particular fabric is behaving.

What About Pressing Velvet & Velour?

This is one area where I don't recommend assuming that every pile fabric should be treated the same way.

Direct heat and pressure can crush or flatten the pile, and different fabrics have different levels of heat tolerance.

Personally, I don't press my velour, so I'm not going to recommend a pressing technique that I haven't personally tested.

If your particular fabric requires pressing:

• Check the manufacturer's care instructions.

• Test on a scrap first.

• Use the appropriate temperature for the fabric.

• Be careful about applying direct pressure to the pile.

When in doubt, test first.

Ashley's Tip

I personally don't press my velour.

I'm much more comfortable avoiding heat and pressure on the pile unless I know exactly how that particular fabric will react.

Quick Reference: Sewing Velvet, Velour & Velveteen

If you want to save this guide for your next project, here's the short version:

BEFORE YOU START

✓ Check fabric content
✓ Check care instructions
✓ Determine whether the fabric stretches
✓ Identify the nap

BEFORE YOU BUY FABRIC

✓ Check the pattern layout
✓ Make sure all pieces can follow the same nap direction
✓ Buy additional yardage if necessary

NEEDLES

Stretch → Ballpoint or Stretch
Woven → Universal or Microtex

HOLDING FABRIC

✓ Ballpoint/fine pins
✓ Silk pins
✓ Clips
✓ Pattern weights

Test first—clips and weights may leave marks in the pile.

CUTTING

✓ Cut one layer at a time
✓ Keep nap direction consistent
✓ Consider cutting from the wrong side
✓ Handle gently

SEWING

✓ Test on scraps
✓ Consider a walking foot
✓ Don't pull/stretch the fabric unnecessarily
✓ Use tissue paper for small layered pieces when helpful

PRESSING

⚠️ Be cautious with heat and pressure
✓ Check care instructions
✓ Test on a scrap first

Watch the Full Tutorial

Want to see these techniques in action?

In the full Fabric 101 tutorial, I demonstrate how I work with stretch velour while making a pair of pants, including cutting, pattern placement, choosing needles and pins, using a walking foot, and using tissue paper to help control smaller pieces.

Tools Used in This Tutorial

I've put the sewing tools I use in my projects together in my Amazon storefront, including many of the tools discussed in this tutorial.

https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley

Some links may be affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through them, at no additional cost to you.

Fabric: Mood Fabric Persica Royal Blue Stretch Velour

Pattern: Simplicity S9931

Final Thoughts

Velvet, velour, and velveteen might look intimidating when you first start working with them, but don't let that beautiful pile scare you away.

The biggest things to remember are:

Understand the pile.
Pay attention to the nap.
Choose your tools based on the fabric's construction.
Test before you sew.
And take your time.

Once you understand how the fabric behaves, these beautiful fabrics become much easier—and a lot more fun—to sew.

If there's another fabric you've been nervous to sew with, leave a comment and let me know. It might be the next topic in my Fabric 101 series!

How to Sew a Chapstick Holder (Beginner-Friendly Scrap Fabric Project)

*This blog post contains affiliate links*

Are you tired of digging through your purse, backpack, or diaper bag looking for your chapstick? Today I'm sharing a quick and easy sewing project that solves that problem!

This beginner-friendly chapstick holder can be clipped to your keys, purse, backpack, or lanyard so your lip balm is always easy to find. Best of all, it's a great scrap-busting project that can be completed in less than 30 minutes.

Whether you're new to sewing or just looking for a practical project to use up leftover fabric, this chapstick holder is a fun and useful make. Also it makes a great gift and stocking stuffer!

Supplies:

Scrap Fabric Pieces

Cut the following pieces:

• Main Front Piece: 4" x 2.5"

• Main Back Piece: 4" x 2.5"

• Interfacing Pieces: 4" x 2.5" (for main back) and 5.5" x 2.25" (for pocket)

• Pocket Piece: 5.5" x 2.5"

• Loop Piece: 2.25" x 3"

Additional Supplies

• 1.5" D-ring clasp

• Interfacing (10" x 3")

• Coordinating thread

• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

• Pins or sewing clips

• Iron

• Sewing machine

• Turning tool, chopstick, or pencil

I have linked all of my favorite sewing supplies in my Amazon storefront for your convenience. Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Step 1: Apply the Interfacing

Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the main back piece. Then apply your interfacing to the back of the pocket piece.

Fuse it according to the manufacturer's instructions. This will add structure and help the chapstick holder maintain its shape over time.

Step 2: Create the Loop Strap

Fold the loop piece in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Use you iron to press and create a crease.

Open the fold and press both of the edges toward the center crease and create creases on the edge (this is similar to creating bias tape). Be careful not to press the center crease.

After you've created your creases, fold everything towards the center.

Topstitch along both long edges approximately 1/8 inch from the edge.

Slide the D-ring clasp onto the strap and fold the strap in half. Set aside.

Take the back piece and fold it in half widthwise to find the center. You can use chalk, disappearing fabric marker, or a sewing pin to mark the center points of the back piece. Repeat this step with the loop piece.

Next, take your loop strap and match up the center point of the loop strap and the center point of the top of the back piece. Make sure you line up the raw edges and pin the loop strap in place.

To secure everything together, we're going to sew a basting stitch 1/8" away from the raw edges.

Step 3: Prepare the Pocket

Fold the pocket piece in half, so it's half the original height. 

Topstitch along the folded edge 1/8" (away from the edge) to create a finished top edge for the pocket.

Step 4: Assemble the Holder 

Place the pocket piece on the back piece, align the raw edges. 

Position the loop strap down so it's laying on top of the pocket.

Place the main front piece on top, right side down, with right sides together.

Clip or pin around the edges.

Sew around the entire rectangle using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch opening along the bottom edge for turning.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the opening.

Step 5: Turn Right Side Out

Trim the corners diagonally, being careful not to cut the stitching. This will help reduce the bulk in the corners and allow you to create crisp points.

Turn the holder right side out through the opening.

Use a turning tool, chopstick, or pencil to gently push out the corners.

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward and press the entire piece flat.

Step 6: Topstitch

Topstitch around the entire perimeter approximately 1/8 inch from the edge.

This closes the turning opening and gives the project a professional finish.

Step 7: Finish

Give your chapstick holder a final press.

Your project is now complete and ready to clip onto your keys, purse, backpack, or bag.

More Scrap-Busting Sewing Projects

Looking for more ways to use up fabric scraps? Be sure to check out my Fabric Scrap Busters: Easy Sewing Projects playlist for more beginner-friendly ideas.

Watch the Video Tutorial

Prefer to follow along visually? Watch the full step-by-step video tutorial below.

This chapstick holder is one of my favorite quick sewing projects because it's practical, beginner-friendly, and a great way to use fabric scraps that might otherwise go to waste.

If you make one, I'd love to hear what fabric you used and whether you made it for yourself or as a gift!

🧵 Sewing Project Planner & Fabric Stash Organizer (Free Printable PDF)

If you’ve ever started a sewing project only to forget what fabric you planned to use—or bought the same fabric twice—you’re not alone. I’ve been there too! That’s exactly why I created the Sewing Project Queue Tracker and Fabric Stash Organizer, a simple printable set to help you keep your sewing life organized, creative, and stress-free.

Whether you sew a little or a lot, these printable trackers will help you plan what to make, use the fabric you already have, and actually finish the projects you start.

✂️ Why You’ll Love These Sewing Trackers

These sewing planner printables are designed for avid sewists—the kind of people who love collecting fabric and dreaming up new projects but don’t always have time to keep it all straight.

With this set, you can:

• Keep all your project ideas, patterns, and progress in one place

• Log fabric details like fiber type, yardage, stretch, and width

• Match fabrics to projects so you know exactly what to sew next

• Stay motivated by tracking your sewing progress

They’re easy to print, simple to use, and pretty enough to keep in your sewing planner or binder.

🪡 What’s Included in the PDF

This printable set includes two matching planner pages:

🧵 Sewing Project Queue Tracker

Use this sheet to plan your sewing projects from start to finish. Record your:

• Project name

• Pattern information (and whether you already have it)

• Fabric required (and whether you have it)

• Project status (Not Started, Cutting, Sewing, Finished)

• Notes such as difficulty level, alterations, or ideas

🧵 Fabric Stash Organizer

Keep your fabrics organized with this simple yet detailed tracker. Log your:

• Fabric type, fiber content, and yardage

• Stretch percentage or fabric weight

• Where you purchased it and when

• Project ideas for using it

Together, these two pages make a powerful duo for planning and organizing your sewing projects season after season.

🧵How I Use My Trackers

I usually start by picking 3–5 sewing projects for the season—like a linen top, cotton dress, or flannel pajama set. Then, I fill in the Project Queue Tracker with the pattern, fabric, and any notes.

Next, I use the Fabric Tracker to record details about each fabric in my stash. I link those fabrics to the projects I just listed, so I can easily see which ones are ready to sew and which still need supplies.

The best part? It’s so satisfying to update the “Status” column as you move from “Cutting” to “Finished.” It really keeps me motivated!

💡 Tips for Getting the Most Out of Your Sewing Planner

• Print a few copies and keep them in a binder divided by season or type of project.

• Use color coding or sticky notes to highlight priority projects.

• Print on heavier paper (like 28 lb.) for a clean, durable finish.

• Combine with a sewing journal or project notebook for extra organization.

🖨️ Download the Sewing Tracker PDF

You can grab this Sewing Project Queue Tracker + Fabric Stash Organizer as a Pay-What-You-Want PDF download from my Ko-fi shop.

That means you can download it for free—or leave a small tip to support my channel and future printables.

👉 Download the Sewing Tracker on Ko-fi

🎥 Watch the Tutorial on YouTube

Want to see how I use these trackers in real life?
Check out my video here: 

🎬 Watch on YouTube

Organization doesn’t have to take the fun out of sewing—it should make it easier to enjoy!

With these simple printable trackers, you’ll always know what fabric you have, what you’re making next, and how far along you are.

Download your free printable sewing planner today and start sewing with more focus, creativity, and confidence.

sewing planner printable, sewing project tracker, fabric stash organizer, sewing planner PDF, free sewing printables, sewing organization, sewing binder, sewing project planning, fabric tracker printable, sewing pdf download

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How to Sew a Casserole Hot Pad (Beginner-Friendly Tutorial)

Check out the full video tutorial here: Watch the YouTube Video

You can also watch the tutorial by clicking the video at the end of this post.

If you’re looking for an easy, practical sewing project that you’ll actually use, this casserole hot pad is it. This project is perfect for beginners, makes a great handmade gift, and is a fantastic way to practice sewing with thicker layers.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through every step, share beginner-friendly tips, and explain exactly why I chose Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam Plus for this project.

Supplies You’ll Need

Affiliate Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you make a purchase using these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

🧵 Fabric

• Two pieces of cotton fabric, each cut to 17" x 13"
  

🧵 Fusible Fleece / Batting

• Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam Plus (2 layers, each cut to 17" x 13")

🧵 Tools & Equipment

• Acrylic ruler

• Self-healing cutting mat

• Fabric shears or rotary cutter

• Sewing machine

• Walking foot (optional but very helpful)

• Iron & ironing board

• Pins or clips

• Corner turner or chopstick

🛍 Shop My Supplies: Most of the tools and materials I use are linked in my Amazon storefront (affiliate links included). Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Finished Size:

Approximately 16" x 12"

This size works perfectly for standard casserole dishes and baking pans.

Why I Used Pellon TP971F (And Not Insul-Bright)...

For this casserole hot pad, I used Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam Plus instead of Insul-Bright.

Here’s why:

• Thermolam Plus adds great structure and insulation without being stiff

• It’s fusible, which helps keep layers from shifting

• I used two layers (one on each side) to add extra bulk and protection

I did not use Insul-Bright for this project. Insul-Bright contains metalized fibers and cannot be used in the microwave. While this hot pad likely won’t fit in most microwaves anyway, I prefer to keep my projects simple and avoid any chance of accidental misuse.

⚠️ Important: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when fusing your fleece. Using the wrong heat or steam settings can damage the fusible or your fabric.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Cut Your Pieces

Cut the following:

• (2) Fabric pieces at 17" x 13"

• (2) Pellon TP971F pieces at 17" x 13"

Take your time here—accurate cutting makes everything easier later.

Step 2: Fuse the Fleece

Fuse one piece of Thermolam Plus to the wrong side of each fabric piece.

Beginner Tips:

• Use the heat setting recommended by the manufacturer

• Press straight down—don’t slide the iron

• Let the pieces cool completely before moving them

Step 3: Layer the Hot Pad

Place the two fabric pieces right sides together, with the fleece facing outward.

Pin or clip around the edges, leaving a 4–5 inch turning gap on one long side.

Step 4: Sew Around the Edges

Sew around the entire hot pad using a ¼"–½" seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and end.

💡 Tip: If you have a walking foot, this is a great time to use it. The layers are thick, and a walking foot helps everything feed evenly.

Step 5: Clip the Corners

Before turning the hot pad right side out, clip the corners at an angle.

This removes bulk and helps you get nice, crisp corners.

Step 6: Turn Right Side Out & Press

Turn the hot pad right side out through the opening.

Use a corner turner or chopstick to gently push out the corners (don’t poke through!).

Press the hot pad flat, folding the raw edges of the opening inward so they’re flush with the seam.

Step 7: Topstitch

Topstitch around the entire hot pad, close to the edge (approximately 1/8" - 1/4" away from the edge).

This:

• Closes the turning opening

• Helps the hot pad lay flat

• Gives a clean, professional finish

Sew slowly, especially around the corners.

That’s a Wrap!

Yay—you made it to the end of our casserole hot pad tutorial! I hope you had as much fun following along as I had making it. Seeing our DIY with Ashley community grow is honestly the best part—I can’t believe we’re almost at 10,000 amazing people! Every view, comment, and share means so much to me, and I love seeing the projects you create from my tutorials.

If this tutorial inspired you, I’d love for you to share it with a friend or family member who loves sewing—it’s the biggest compliment you can give. And if you haven’t yet, subscribe to my YouTube channel—it’s free, fun, and full of beginner-friendly sewing tutorials like this one.

Think of this blog as a place to dive deeper into each project: step-by-step instructions, tips, photos, and printable resources you can use while sewing along with the videos. Together, the blog and YouTube channel are your go-to spot for sewing inspiration and guidance.

Keep experimenting, keep creating, and most importantly… have fun sewing!

Optional Customizations

Once you’re comfortable with this project, you can:

• Add quilting lines for extra texture

• Use coordinating fabrics for gifts

• Adjust the size for different pans

Let’s Stay Connected

📺 Watch more tutorials on YouTube: DIY with Ashley – See every step in action and follow along with beginner-friendly sewing projects.

📖 Read more on the blog: DIY with Ashley Blog – Full tutorials, printable guides, and bonus tips you won’t get on YouTube.

📸 Follow me on Instagram & Facebook: @DIYwithAshley – Behind-the-scenes, sneak peeks, and community highlights.

💬 Share your creations: Tag me on social media if you make this hot pad—I love seeing your versions and featuring them in our community!

☕ Support & Freebies: Ko-Fi – Support the channel and blog while grabbing free downloads and resources.

🛍 Shop my favorite sewing supplies: Amazon Shop – All the tools and materials I personally use for these tutorials.
🛑 As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

🎉 Bonus: Snag 10% off Singer sewing machines using my affiliate link: Singer Discount – Use code SEW10NOW at checkout for a machine I trust for beginner-friendly projects.

How to Sew a Simple Quilted Pot Holder (Beginner-Friendly Scrap Busting Tutorial)

*This blog contains affiliate links*

How to Sew a Simple Quilted Pot Holder (Beginner-Friendly Tutorial Using Fabric Scraps!)

Looking for an easy and useful sewing project that helps you use up fabric scraps? Today I’m sharing a simple quilted pot holder tutorial perfect for beginners. These pot holders make wonderful holiday gifts, hostess gifts, or just a fun way to bring seasonal fabrics into your kitchen. You can also use them as mug rugs, hot pads, or mini table protectors.

In this tutorial, we’ll be using Pellon TP971F Thermolam Plus Fusible, a thick fusible fleece that adds softness and stability. If you want to make a pot holder designed for high heat, you can use Pellon 975 Insul-Fleece, but keep in mind that it contains metallic fibers—so it cannot go in the microwave. I personally chose Thermolam Plus for this project because it's safer for my own habits and still creates a sturdy, insulated result.

I’ve also created a step-by-step video tutorial on my YouTube channel, DIY with Ashley — I’ll insert the video below so you can sew along with me.

✂️ What You’ll Need (Makes 1 Pot Holder)

• (2) Cotton Fabric squares: 9" × 9"

• (2) Pieces of Pellon TP971F Thermolam Plus Fusible: 9" × 9"

• (1) Loop strip: 1.5" × 4.5"

• Disappearing fabric marker or chalk

• Iron & ironing board

• Sewing machine

• Coordinating thread

• Pins or clips

• Scissors or rotary cutter

• Corner turner 

• Walking Foot  (optional but very helpful)

All of the supplies mentioned above are available in my Amazon storefront — some of the links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no extra cost to you.

🛍 Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop
🛑 Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

🧵 Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1 – Fuse the Thermolam Plus

• Place the fusible fleece on the wrong side of each 9x9 fabric square.

• Lightly press around the edges to baste, then fuse the rest according to Pellon’s instructions.

Step 2 – Make the Hanging Loop

• Fold your 1.5" x 4.5" strip in half lengthwise and press.

• Open it, fold each raw edge toward the center crease, press, then fold closed again.

• Topstitch ⅛ inch from each long side.

Step 3 – Layer the Pot Holder

Insert the loop:

• Find the center of one side of a fused fabric square and mark it.

• Place the loop’s raw ends on either side of the mark with the loop pointing down toward the center.

• Pin in place.

Layer the squares:

• Place the two squares right sides together and pin all around.

Step 4 – Sew the Edges

• Sew around all four sides using a ½" inch seam allowance.

• Leave a 2- 3" inch opening on one side for turning.

• Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Step 5 – Trim the Corners

• Trim the seam allowance at each corner to reduce bulk.

• Avoid cutting into your stitches.

Step 6 – Turn Right Side Out

• Turn the pot holder through the opening.

• Use a corner turner to push the corners out neatly.

Step 7 – Press

• Press the pot holder flat so the edges are crisp and the turning gap is folded in smoothly.

Step 8 – Mark the Topstitch & Quilting Lines

Use a disappearing fabric marker + ruler:

1. Draw the topstitch guideline

   • Mark a line ¼" inch from the edge all the way around the pot holder.

2. Draw the quilting lines

   • Mark quilting lines spaced about 1" inch apart across the pot holder.

(You are only drawing at this stage, not sewing yet.)

Step 9 – Sew the Topstitch

• Sew directly on the ¼" inch topstitch line around the entire pot holder.

• This closes the opening and secures the edges.

• Backstitch at the start and end.

Step 10 – Quilt the Pot Holder

• Sew along each quilting line from edge to edge.

• Backstitch at the start and end of each quilting line for durability.

Step 11 – Final Press

• Give your pot holder one last press so everything lays smooth and professional.

🎉You're Done!

And that’s it! Your quilted pot holder is finished — thick, sturdy, and beautiful. You can make several from a half yard of fabric if you like, perfect for gifting or decorating your kitchen.

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I’d love to see what you create! Share your quilted pot holders on social media and tag me @DIYwithAshley — I can’t wait to see your projects!

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DIY Reversible Placemats: Easy Step-by-Step Sewing Guide

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Sew Your Own Reversible Placemats 

Easy Beginner Sewing Tutorial

I can’t believe I hadn’t shared this tutorial on my blog! This tutorial is actually one of my most popular videos on YouTube, and I wanted to make sure it’s here too. In this post, you’ll learn how to sew beautiful, custom reversible placemats step by step. These easy DIY placemats are perfect for sprucing up your dining room, creating thoughtful handmade gifts, or adding a seasonal touch to your home décor.

✨ Bonus: I’ve created a printable reversible placemats sewing guide with measurements, a supply list, and step-by-step instructions to make your sewing even easier. Grab it here → Download the guide (Pay What You Want)

Why Make Reversible Placemats?

Reversible placemats are practical and stylish, allowing you to:

• Switch designs for different occasions, seasons, or holidays

• Easily hide stains or messes on the back side

• Mix and match fabrics for a unique look

• Create durable, handmade gifts that are both functional and beautiful

With endless fabric possibilities, you can create a set of reversible placemats that perfectly match your table décor and style.

Here’s what I used for this project:

Supplies

1.5 yards Main Fabric  1.5 yards Coordinating Fabric  1.5 yards Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam Plus Fleece 45''  Fabric Scissors (or a Rotary Cutter)  Acrylic Ruler  Cutting Mat  Ironing Board  Iron  Sewing Pins  Coordinating Thread  Sewing Machine  Point Turner (or Chopstick)  Press Cloth (optional)

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Pattern Pieces (6 Placemats)

Piece	Qty	Size
Main Fabric	6	14" x 20"
Coordinating Fabric	6	14" x 20"
Fusible Fleece	6	14" x 20"

Instructions

1. Cut Your Fabrics and Fusible Fleece
Cut six 14" × 20" inch pieces from the main fabric, six from the coordinating fabric, and six from the fusible fleece.  

2. Fuse the Fleece
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of each coordinating fabric piece. Tip: Lightly press along the top edge first to tack it in place, then work your way down. Repeat for all six pieces.  

3. Assemble Your Placemat
With the fleece fused to all coordinating fabric pieces, place each main fabric piece right sides together with a coordinating piece. Pin in place.  

4. Sew Around the Edges
Sew around the placemat edges with a ½″ seam allowance. Stop sewing 2" – 3″ inches before you reach your starting point to leave an opening for turning.  

5. Turn and Press
Trim the fabric at each corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut through the stitching.   

Then, turn the placemat right side out through the 2" – 3″ inch opening. Use a point turner to gently shape the corners (or a chopstick if you don’t have a point turner).  

After turning the placemat right side out, press along the edges for a crisp finish. Tuck the seam allowance of the opening to the inside so it’s even with the edge.   

6. Topstitch
Pin the opening closed, then add a few pins around the entire placemat to hold it in place. 

Topstitch around the placemat about ¼" inch from the edge for a polished, professional finish that keeps your reversible placemat flat.

Tips for Perfect Reversible Placemats

• Use fusible fleece for structure without adding bulk

• Press at every stage for crisp, clean edges

• Experiment with fun fabrics to create seasonal, holiday, or themed sets

• Topstitch carefully to keep both sides neat. A walking foot might be helpful if your placemats end up being thick and bulky.

Share Your Placemat Creations!

I’d love to see your reversible placemats! Tag me on social media: @DIYwithAshley on Instagram and Facebook. 

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