How to Make an Oversized XL Scrunchie | Easy DIY Sewing Tutorial

How to Make an Oversized XL Scrunchie

Looking for a fun and easy sewing project? In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make an oversized or XL scrunchie—perfect for adding a touch of style to your hair! I copied the pattern of my favorite scrunchie and used some leftover silky fabric scraps, but you can use almost any light to medium-weight fabric for this project. This tutorial is beginner-friendly and packed with tips to get your scrunchie looking professional and voluminous.

🎥 Watch the full YouTube tutorial here: https://youtu.be/5Fiq0WCEXaY

Supplies You’ll Need

Here’s everything you’ll need to get started:

• Fabric shears or a rotary cutter

• Acrylic ruler and self-healing cutting mat

• Standard thread (match it to your fabric for a clean finish)

• Hem guide

• Sewing clips or pins

• Sewing machine

• 8–8.5 inches of 1/4-inch wide elastic (adjust based on hair thickness or measure your favorite scrunchie and add an inch)

• Fabric strip 7 inches wide by 22 inches long (or longer for extra volume)

• Bodkin or safety pin to insert the elastic

Optional: tube turner (or your preferred method for turning the scrunchie right-side out).

Pro tip: For a super fluffy scrunchie, cut the fabric strip along the width of your fabric instead of a fixed 22 inches. The longer the strip, the puffier your scrunchie will be!

🛍 Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley

🛑 Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare Your Fabric

Cut your fabric strip 7 inches wide by 22 inches long (or longer for extra volume), making sure the edges are straight.

2. Fold and Pin

Fold the fabric strip lengthwise, right sides together, so the short ends match. Pin or clip along the long edge, leaving 1–1.5 inches unpinned at each short end for finishing later. 

3. Sew the Long Edge

Sew along the pinned long edge using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. This will create a fabric tube while leaving the short ends open.

4. Turn the Tube Right-Side Out

Use a tube turner, safety pin, or your preferred method to turn the fabric right-side out. 

5. Optional: Press the Fabric

If you’re using a fabric like cotton that wrinkles easily, press the tube with an iron for crisp edges (after you've turned it right side out). For silky fabrics, this step isn’t necessary.

6. Sew the Short Ends

Line up the unsewn short ends, right sides together. Using your sewing pins or clips, pin everything into place. Sew the ends together using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. This part can be a little tricky so guide the fabric as you sew slowly.

7. Insert the Elastic

After the ends are sewn, you'll have your scrunchie tube with an opening left to insert your elastic. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the fabric tube. Ensure the elastic is not twisted inside. Adjust the length to suit your hair—anywhere from 8 to 8.5 inches works well for average thickness. (You can also determine the length of your elastic by measuring your favorite scrunchie and adding an inch.)

8. Sew the Elastic Ends Together

Overlap the ends of your elastic by about 1/2 inch and sew them securely with a few back-and-forth stitches. You can use a zig-zag stitch or a straight stitch.

9. Close the Fabric Tube

After the elastic is sewn, you can close up the opening. Fold the raw edges of the short ends in by 1/4 inch and topstitch the seam closed about 1/8 inch from the edge (or as close as possible for a neat finish). Always use matching thread so the stitches blend seamlessly.

10. Final Touches

Even out the gathers and your XL scrunchie is ready to wear!

💡 See this step in action in my YouTube video: https://youtu.be/5Fiq0WCEXaY

Tips for Customizing Your Scrunchie

• Fabric Choice: Light to medium-weight fabrics work best. Silky, satin, or cotton fabrics each give a different look and feel.

• Elastic Length: Adjust the elastic to your preference. Measure your favorite scrunchie and add an inch for a similar fit.

• Volume: The longer the fabric strip, the puffier the scrunchie. Experiment with different lengths for a dramatic look.

Share Your Scrunchie Creation

I’d love to see what you make! If you post your scrunchie on social media, tag me @diywithashley. 

If you enjoyed this tutorial, you can support my work by checking out my Ko-fi store for extra goodies or browsing my Amazon storefront, where I’ve listed my favorite sewing products, including some of the ones used in this tutorial. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

For more fun sewing and craft ideas, check out my other tutorials and playlists on DIY with Ashley. From scrunchies to reversible placemats, there are plenty of beginner-friendly projects to try.

📺 Watch more scrap busting tutorials: Fabric Scrap Buster Playlist

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🕸️ DIY Halloween Party Planner Printable: Stay Organized for Easy, Stress-Free Hosting

A few years ago, my husband suggested that we host a small Halloween get-together at home. I loved the idea, and every year since, I’ve tried to make it a little more fun and creative — spooky snacks, themed drinks, and cute decorations to match.

But somehow, it always felt like I was putting everything together at the last minute. I’d have recipes saved in one place, a list of decorations somewhere else, and realize (usually the night before!) that we were missing half the ingredients we needed. And even when I did manage to buy everything on time, I’d forget to set something out for the party. Between planning, shopping, and decorating, it always turned into a scramble.

This year, I wanted things to be different.

So I created a Halloween Party Planner Kit — a printable set to help organize everything in one place. My husband usually helps me execute all the ideas I come up with, but I needed a system that worked for both of us — something simple, clear, and easy to follow. Having all our recipes, ingredients, and supplies laid out together made such a difference.

The kit includes:
🕸️ A menu and ingredient list for your spooky snacks and drinks
👻 A grocery shopping list for all your food and drink ingredients
🎃 A party supply checklist for decorations, games, and essentials
🪄 A main party planner + décor and supplies planner to keep every detail organized

Now, instead of scrambling at the last minute, we actually get to enjoy the creative side of planning — picking out recipes, decorating, and spending time together without the stress.

If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed planning a Halloween get-together (or found unopened party supplies after everyone left 😅), this planner might be exactly what you need to make things easier — and a lot more fun.

🧡 Grab your FREE Halloween Party Planner Kit here → https://ko-fi.com/s/a6f682e3a2

Watch how I used my planner for our family Hocus Pocus Movie Night:

Scrunchie Keyfob Sewing Tutorial | Easy Scrap Fabric DIY Project for Beginners

Scrunchie Keyfob Tutorial

Looking for a fun, beginner-friendly sewing project that’s also a great way to use up scrap fabric? This scrunchie keyfob tutorial is perfect! It combines the look of a scrunchie with the function of a keychain, so you can keep your keys handy in style. Plus, it’s quick to make and doesn’t require much fabric.

I’ve actually made a no-sew keyfob tutorial before using webbing and classic keyfob hardware. While that method works, I found the hardware a little tricky to work with. This sewn scrunchie version is easier, gives you more fabric options, and has such a fun, polished finish.

Supplies You’ll Need

• Knit fabric (cotton works great too)

• 1" wide elastic, 9" long (3/4" or 1" width recommended)

• Scissors or rotary cutter

• Self-healing cutting mat

• Sewing clips or pins

• Sewing machine

• Matching thread

• 1" wide lobster clasp with D-ring

• Tube turner

• Safety pin or bodkin (for feeding elastic)

👉 I’ve linked many of the tools and supplies I used in my Amazon Storefront so you can easily find them.

🛍 Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley
🛑 Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Pattern Dimensions

• Fabric: 3" inches wide by 22' inches long

• Elastic: 9" inches long

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Pin the Long Edge

Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin or clip along the long edge, leaving about 1.5 inches unpinned at each short end.

Step 2: Sew the Long Edge

Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew down the long edge to create a fabric tube.

Step 3: Turn the Tube Right Side Out

Use a tube turner to flip the fabric tube right side out.

Step 4: Feed the Elastic

Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the elastic and carefully thread it through the fabric tube. Make sure the elastic doesn’t twist inside.

Step 5: Add the Lobster Clasp

Slide your D-ring lobster clasp onto the fabric tube and let it sit in the middle for now.

Step 6: Sew the Short Ends

Line up the short ends of your fabric, right sides together. Pin or clip, then sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Step 7: Sew the Elastic Ends Together

Overlap the ends of your elastic by about 1/2 inch. Sew them together with a zigzag stitch, sewing back and forth a few times for extra strength.

Step 8: Close the Opening

Tuck in the raw fabric edges at the opening. Sew 1/8 inch away from the edge to close, making sure not to catch the elastic. You can pull the elastic aside slightly as you sew. If you prefer, you can also hand stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch.

Step 9: Position the Lobster Clasp and Fold

You now have a closed loop. Slide the lobster clasp down toward the section where you closed the opening. Fold the loop so the seam is hidden underneath the clasp, which gives a clean, finished look.

Step 10: Topstitch to Secure

Topstitch across the folded section close to the D-ring. Sew across once and then backstitch to reinforce. This keeps the clasp securely in place and hides the seam neatly. Since the keyfob is thick, it might be helpful to start stitching in the middle and then backstitch once you have reached the end.

Finished Scrunchie Keyfob

And that’s it! You’ve made your very own scrunchie keyfob. This project is a great scrap-buster and makes such a fun little gift. Once you make one, you’ll want to whip up a bunch in different fabrics!

If you want to try a different method, check out my No-Sew Keyfob Tutorial, which uses webbing and classic keyfob hardware. Both styles are great, but this sewn version is my personal favorite.

Watch the Full Tutorial on YouTube

I’ve also shared this project step-by-step in a video on my YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/YipQtBxS09Y. Be sure to watch the full tutorial if you’d like to see the process in action.

Thank you for visiting my blog. If you want to check out more of my work, visit my Ko-fi store, where I share extra resources and goodies. Your support helps me keep creating free DIY content for you! 💕

DIY Trader Joe’s Mini Tote Bag Tutorial

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Trader Joe’s Mini Tote Bag Tutorial

Hi everyone! Today, I’m excited to show you how to make your very own mini tote bag, inspired by the popular Trader Joe’s mini tote. These little bags are just so cute and functional—I couldn’t resist creating my own version!

After getting my hands on one, I measured, took notes, and reverse-engineered it to figure out exactly how it was made. My version mostly follows the original design, but I made a couple of tweaks: the front pocket is double-sided for extra sturdiness, and I used cotton webbing for the straps instead of canvas.

For this project, I chose a fun Hawaiian print for the body, sturdy canvas for the bottom, and cotton webbing for the handles. This tote is the perfect size for running errands, carrying snacks, or even as a cute kids’ tote. I can’t wait to show you how to make it!

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Supplies You’ll Need

For this project, you’ll need:

• Main fabric (cotton, twill, canvas, or denim) for:

  • (2) main body pieces: 9.5" tall x 14.75" wide

  • (2) pocket pieces: 6.75" tall x 6" wide

• Canvas fabric for the bottom panel: (1) piece, 12" tall x 14.75" wide

• Fabric shears or a rotary cutter

• Acrylic ruler and self-healing cutting mat

• Cotton webbing for the straps (2 pieces, 34" long each) — I bought mine on Amazon, you can find it in my Amazon storefront (the link is at the end of this list).

• Heavy-duty sewing needles (for sewing through canvas or denim)

• Standard thread for your main fabric and heavy duty thread for the canvas fabric. You can also use topstitching thread for the straps.

• Hem guide

• Sewing clips and pins

• Iron and ironing board

• Sewing machine

• Serger (or ¼" or ½" inch double-fold bias tape to finish raw seams)

🛍 Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley
🛑 Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

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Step 1: Make the Pocket

1. Take the two pocket pieces and place them right sides together.

2. Sew around three sides with a ¼" seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open. This will allow us to turn the pocket right side out. The bottom opening will be enclosed in the seams between the main body and the bottom of the tote when we sew the pieces together.

3. Clip the corners, turn the pocket right side out, and press flat.

4. Topstitch along the top edge of the pocket for a neat finish.

Tip: The original Trader Joe’s tote uses a single folded layer for the pocket. If you want a simpler version, you can do that too. 

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Step 2: Attach the Pocket

1. Find the center of your pocket and the center of one main body piece. Mark the centers using a sewing clip or a sewing pin.

2. Line up the centers (of the pocket and the main body) and align the unfinished pocket bottom with the bottom of the main piece.

3. Pin or clip the pocket in place and sew down the sides only, sew past the top of the pocket and backstitching at the top corners for strength.

4. Leave the bottom edge open—it will get enclosed when you attach the body to the bottom panel.

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Step 3: Finish the Top Edge

1. Fold the top edge of the main piece down ½", press, then fold down another ½" and press again. Repeat this step for the other main piece.

2. Pin or clip the pressed top edge. Sew 1/8" inch away from the (bottom of the) folded edge to finish the top edge of the bag. 

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Step 4: Add the Straps

1. Measure about 3.75" inches in from (unfinished) edge of the main piece and pin the straps starting at the hem line on the main piece. Make sure the straps are not twisted or turned.  

2. On the side with the pocket, make sure the straps overlap the pocket edge by at least ¼ inch.

3. Set your sewing machine to a slightly longer stitch length (around 3.0 mm). The longer stitch length will help prevent the webbing from puckering or distorting.

4. Sew the straps in a rectangle shape:

   • Start at the bottom of the strap

   • Sew up one side, across the top edge (going over the top hem stitch line), then down the other side

   • Keep stitching about 1/8” from the webbing edge and make sure straps are flat and untwisted

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Step 5: Assemble the Body and Bottom

1. Pin the main body pieces to the long edges of the canvas bottom panel, right sides together.

2. Sew with a ¼" seam allowance to create one continuous piece including the two body panels and the bottom.

3. Finish seams:

• Serger: serge the edges, tucking the tails into the side seam for a clean look

• No serger: enclose raw edges with ¼”–½” double-fold bias tape

4. Optional: Press the seam down toward the canvas and topstitch 1/8” from the seam on the canvas part of the bag to sew down the seam allowance. Repeat this step for the other side.

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Step 6: Sew the Side Seams

1. With the bottom and sides attached, match the side seams where the bottom begins and align the finished top edges.

2. Pin in place and sew both sides with a ¼” seam allowance.

3. Finish raw edges as above:

   • Serger: tuck the tails into the seam

   • Bias tape: cover the raw edges for a polished finish

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Step 7: Shape the Bag (Boxed Corners)

1. Turn the bag inside out so the wrong side is facing out.

2. Fold the bottom panel up to form a triangle at each corner.

3. Measure 2.5" inches from the corner to the top of the triangle and use your tailors chalk or a washable/disappearing fabric marker to draw a straight line (to mark the bottom of the triangle). Use this line to sew a straight line across.

4. Repeat for the other corner to create boxed corners, giving your tote its structured shape.

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And You’re Done!

Congratulations! You’ve made your own Trader Joe’s-inspired mini tote bag. I love how versatile and cute this bag is, and I hope you enjoy using it as much as I do.

If you try this project, let me know in the comments, and if you post a photo, be sure to tag me @diywithashley—I’d love to see your creation!

If you enjoyed this tutorial and want to support my work (or grab some exclusive extras), check out my Ko-fi store: https://ko-fi.com/diywithashley.

🎥 Watch the step-by-step video tutorial: https://youtu.be/gVuxucl0-P0

Thanks for sewing with me today. Don’t forget to subscribe for more fun DIY sewing projects. See you next time!

🧸 How to Sew a Plushie Display Pillow – Perfect for Claw Machine Wins, Pop Mart Toys & Keychain Plushies

This post does contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Calling all plushie lovers, blind box collectors, and claw machine champions! If you’ve got a growing army of keychain plushies, Pop Mart toys, or trinkets with no place to go, this DIY plushie display pillow is the project you didn’t know you needed.

This sewing tutorial will walk you through how to make a soft, functional, and super cute 16" x 16" display pillow with hanging loops and built-in pockets — perfect for showing off your favorites and keeping them from getting lost in your bed or couch cushions.

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💡 What Is a Plushie Display Pillow?

Think of it like a cross between an ita bag and a cozy pillow. This beginner-friendly sewing project features:

• A hanging strap with optional D-rings for keychains

• Bottom pockets to hold plushies or blind box toys

• A soft pillow insert inside

• An envelope-style back closure (no zippers!)

It's a great way to keep your collection visible, organized, and accessible — and it’s fully customizable!

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✂️ Supplies You’ll Need

This list covers everything for one 16" x 16" pillow with built-in display features:

🧵 Fabric & Materials:

• ½ yard cotton fabric for the pillow front and back

• ¼ yard contrasting cotton fabric for the bottom pocket (optional)

• Fusible fleece interfacing – 17" x 17"

• Matching thread

• 16" x 16" pillow insert

• Optional: D-rings or hook clips for plushies that don't have them.

🛠 Tools:

• Iron and ironing board

• Sewing machine

• Pins or quilting clips

• Acrylic ruler and self-healing cutting mat

• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

• Fabric marker or chalk

🧠 Optional: A walking foot can be helpful when sewing over multiple layers.

Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley

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📐 Pattern Piece Dimensions (with ½" seam allowance included)

Piece	Cut Size (H x W)
Front Panel	17" x 17"
Back Panels (x2)	17" x 13.5"
Pocket Panel	6.5" x 17"
Hanging Strap	2" x 17"
D-Ring Loops (x6)	2.5" x 1.5" each
Fusible Fleece	17" x 17"

🧵 Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Front Panel

• Fuse the fusible fleece to the wrong side of your front fabric panel.

• Set aside for now.

Step 2: Make the D-Ring Loops

• Fold each 2.5" x 1.5" loop piece in half widthwise and press using your iron. Then fold the edges of the strip to the center and iron them as well. After everything is ironed, close up the strip and press everything shut. It should look like a piece of bias tape.

• Topstitch 1/8" away from the edge on each of the straps.

• Optional: Insert a ½" D-ring in each loop.

Step 3: Sew the Hanging Strap

• Lay your 2" x 17" strap piece right side up.

• Evenly space the loops across the strap, spacing them 2 3/4" away from each other, starting from the 1/2" seam allowance mark on each side.

• Baste the loops to the strap.

• Fold the (top and bottom) long edge ¼" to the wrong side of the fabric and iron flat.

Step 4: Attach the Hanging Strap

• On your front panel, mark a line 2.5" down from the top raw edge.

• Center and pin the strap across this line.

• Topstitch the top and bottom of the strap, 1/8' inch from the edge, securing it flat.

Step 5: Make the Pocket Panel

• Fold top edge over ½" twice, press, and topstitch 1/8" inch away from the edge to hem.

• Align raw bottom edge of pocket panel with bottom edge of front panel, right sides up.

• Pin in place.

Step 6: Divide the Pocket

• Mark 4 equal sections (each 4" wide) across the pocket. Begin your measurement from the 1/2" seam allowance mark on each side.

• Topstitch vertical lines from the top of the pocket to the bottom edge to form 4 pockets. Be sure to extend your stitch line past the top of the pocket and backstitch to keep the pocket secured.

Step 7: Make the Envelope Back

• Hem one long edge of each back panel by folding over ½" twice and stitch the hem.

• Layer the back panels right sides down on the pillow front, overlapping the hemmed edges to create an envelope-style closure.

• Pin around the entire pillow.

Step 8: Assemble the Pillow

• Sew around the entire edge with ½" seam allowance.

• Clip corners, and finish the edges using a serger, pinking shears, or a zig-zag stitch.

• Turn right side out, and press.

Step 9: Insert Pillow Form

• Slide in your 16" x 16" pillow insert.

• Clip on your plushie keychains to the loops.

• Pop smaller plushies or dolls in the front pockets.

You’re done!

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🧸 Customize It!

• Make it in pastel or kawaii prints, matching your plushie aesthetic.

• Use clips or carabiners for plushies that don’t have hooks.

• Add labels, embroidery, or patches to personalize it.

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📺 Watch the Full Tutorial

🎥 I walk you through every step of this pillow on my YouTube channel!
▶️ Watch the Plushie Display Pillow Tutorial

You can also check out these helpful beginner-friendly sewing tutorials:

• 🧵 Basic Envelope Pillow Tutorial

• 📚 Reading Pillow with Pocket

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❤️ Love Plushies? Save This for Later!

Pin this post or bookmark it to come back the next time you need a handmade gift idea or just want to spoil yourself (and your plushies).

DIY Notebook Pen Holder | Easy Sewing Tutorial for Beginners!

Hello, crafty friends! 👋

If you’re like me, you probably have a few notebooks, planners, or journals floating around your desk, always in need of a little extra organization. Well, today I’m going to show you how to make a DIY notebook pen holder that’s perfect for storing your pens, bookmarks, and even a nail file! It’s simple, functional, and adds a bit of personality to your stationery setup. 🖊️📓

Whether you’re a bullet journaler, a planner enthusiast, or someone who loves to stay organized with cute and practical DIYs, this easy sewing project is perfect for you.

In today’s post, I’ll walk you through the steps to make your very own notebook holder, along with some fun customization ideas! And, as always, you can follow along with the full tutorial on my YouTube channel (see the video below).

Why I Made This Notebook Holder

Last year, I started using a bullet journal to help organize my thoughts, plans, and daily tasks. But something was always missing—a pen holder that I could keep with my notebook! I kept misplacing pens and bookmarks and needed a solution to keep everything together. So, I decided to make this cute notebook holder that would not only hold my pens but could also store bookmarks and even a nail file for a little personal touch. It’s simple, functional, and a perfect DIY project for anyone who loves to craft and stay organized!

Supplies You’ll Need for This DIY Notebook Pen Holder

Before we dive into the project, let’s gather our supplies. Here’s what you’ll need:

• 2 fabric pieces – 8.5" x 3" (for the front and back of the holder)
  
  

• 1 piece of interfacing – 8.5" x 3" (for the back piece)
  
  

• 1 fabric piece – 11" x 3" (for the pocket)
  
  

• 1 piece of interfacing – 11" x 3" (for the pocket)
  
  

• Elastic – About 11" of 5/8" to 1" wide foldover or regular elastic (depending on your notebook size)
  
  

• Coordinating thread
  
  

• Fabric scissors, pins or clips, ruler, iron, and of course, a sewing machine
  

🛍 Shop My Favorite Supplies: Amazon Shop https://www.amazon.com/shop/diywithashley
🛑 Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

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Instructions

Step 1: Cut Your Fabric and Interfacing

Start by cutting out your fabric and interfacing pieces. For the main holder, cut two 8.5" x 3" pieces for the front and back. For the pocket, cut one 11" x 3" piece of fabric and one piece of interfacing the same size.

Step 2: Apply the Interfacing

Apply the interfacing to the back piece and the pocket piece. This gives your notebook holder a bit more structure and durability.

Step 3: Fold the Pocket and Mark the Center

Now, fold the pocket piece in half, wrong sides together, and press the fold. Then, fold it in half again to find the center, and mark it with pins at both the top and bottom.

Step 4: Attach the Pocket to the Front

Pin the pocket to the front piece of the holder, aligning the bottom edges. Make sure the center of the pocket matches the center of the front piece.

Optional Step: To create a divided pocket for extra storage, sew a straight line down the center of the pocket. This is great for keeping pens and bookmarks separated!

Step 5: Add the Elastic

Cut a piece of elastic about 11" long (depending on your notebook size) and align it with the center of the pocket and front piece. Baste the elastic along the bottom of the pocket and the top of the front piece. Pin it out of the way for now.

Step 6: Sew the Holder Together

Pin the back piece to the front + pocket piece, right sides together. Sew around the edges, leaving a 3-4" opening to turn the holder right side out.

Step 7: Finish the Project

Clip the corners to reduce bulk, then carefully turn the holder right side out. Use a turning tool (or even a chopstick) to push out the corners. Give the edges a quick press with your iron (but don’t iron the elastic!). Finally, topstitch around the edge at 1/8" to secure everything in place.

One of the best things about this project is that you can personalize it however you like! Use fabric that matches your style or the theme of your planner or journal. You can also change the pocket size, add embroidery, or make it a little longer to hold more pens.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try adding a divided pocket by sewing a straight line down the middle, which will help you organize pens and bookmarks even better!

I hope you love making this DIY notebook pen holder as much as I did! It's the perfect project for beginners and anyone looking to add a little organization to their workspace. Let me know how yours turns out in the comments below—I can’t wait to see your creative versions! 😊

If you enjoyed this project, be sure to share it with your friends and subscribe to my blog and YouTube channel for more DIY tutorials. I’ve got plenty of fun and easy projects coming your way!

Watch the Full Video Tutorial

For a more detailed guide, check out my YouTube video where I walk you through each step of the process. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more easy DIY tutorials!

Watch the full video tutorial here: https://youtu.be/PjdAQKjvEJw